The gym’s route setting process often goes unnoticed, yet it is one of the most influential factors in competitions, indoor climbing, and gym culture. Earlier this summer, we talked with various female setters, which Missy coined “the unicorn of the climbing world” for their rarity. In today’s post we aim to shed light on one of the “unicorns” behind this route-setting process. Molly Beard is arguably one of the most experienced and well-known setters, male or female. Climbing for 20 years and setting for 18, Molly stands out among the rest, not only as one of the few female setters at the national level, but especially for her creativity, vision, and commitment to doing the work she loves. In her setting and climbing philosophy, Molly has a heart for all climbers and a desire to set for the youngest as well as the oldest, the V0 and the V10 climber, the kid who can’t reach and the 6’4″ climber. Read on to examine climbing from the setter’s perspective, and learn more about the creative route-setting genius of Molly Beard.
CXC: Your job seems very unique to us, especially for a female. What got you into route setting in the first place?
MB: I did some competing on my own and then began coaching a youth team in 1995. It was really obvious when the setting was good (as in equitable for tall or small, not bottlenecky, etc.) and when it was not. I got curious about how to set hard things that my tiny kids could reach, and so started to work on that concept by making routes for my team for practices. Near this time Tony Yaniro was in Portland going to school, and he hosted a setting clinic at one of the gyms. I was too poor to be able to attend, but asked him if we could trade: I would set for him for free at an upcoming Youth Regional Championship, if he would teach me. He agreed. I got completely worked, wrecked and schooled, and after sleeping a few days, was beyond psyched to learn more. I am constantly and profoundly grateful that he agreed to mentor me.
Crux Crush 